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Le Bourbon Pointu
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EXTRACT OF THE WALL STREET JOURNAL FOOD & DRINK DIVISION, Sunday November 16, 2008
A LO-CAF TASTE TEST
We organized a blind tasting of coffee made from three new naturally low-caffeine beans: Daterra's Opus I Exotic; UCC Ueshima's Bourbon Pointu; and Illy's Idillyum espresso. For comparison, we also included a full-caffeine coffee, Intelligentsia's Los Inmortales, as well as the decaf house blend from Stumptown Coffee Roasters, based in Portland, Ore. , in the tasting.
Our tasters were Dan Griffin, of New York coffee consultancy Tamp Tamp; Kevin Mahan, managing partner of Gramercy Tavern in New York; Oren Bloostein, owner of New York specialty coffee roaster and retailer Oren's Daily Roast; and Steve Colten, a coffee merchant and former president of the Specialty Coffee Association of America.
The new low-cafs were in for a challenge. All four panelists said that as a rule they prefer drinking regular coffee. Mr. Griffin says he routinely tells his café clients not to serve decaf at all. "I drink coffee for the complexity, for the sweetness, for the beauty of the flavor," he says. "With the decaf, it's just not there."
To minimize some of the variables that could affect the quality and taste, we had four of the coffees roasted on the same day, though this was done by four different roasters, and prepared the same way: the beans were ground before the tasting and steep-brewed. The fifth coffee, Illy's Idillyum espresso, had been roasted at an earlier date and was packaged in a pre-ground espresso pod. It was prepared in the Illy coffee maker for which it was designed.
Here are the results, obtained after much slurping and spitting.
Bourbon Pointu
[Bourbon Pointu] Ericka Burchett/WSJ
All four tasters chose UCC Ueshima's low-caffeine coffee as the best cup, although their enthusiasm for it varied. Mr. Colten dubbed it "fabulous," praising its body and maintenance of flavor from hot to lukewarm. Mr. Mahan detected a note of canned pineapple but liked the coffee's acidity. Mr. Griffin thought the coffee was "out of balance" but said, "if this is a decaf, they did a pretty good job." Mr. Bloostein faulted the coffee for having "little complexity" but said it had the best acidity.
See entire Wall street journal article.pdf
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